Lemon, sassafras, and black tea pungent smokiness in the nose of Loosen’s 2009 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett lead to a polished, cooling display of herb, honeydew melon, and citrus that finishes with effortless refreshment and whiff of smoke and a kiss of wet stone. Here is another little classic of its type apt to perform well for 15-20 years.